When we visited the Hebridean island of Lewis back in May last year, there was one particular site we were eager to see… the Calanais Standing Stones. Perhaps it is their awesome presence, or maybe the sense of mystery they invoke. Whatever the reason we weren’t disappointed.

These megalithic giants are, quite simply, fascinating, and their remote location just adds to the atmosphere. They sit atop a barren hill on a small peninsula overlooking Loch Ròg, exposed to the full fury of Atlantic weather. Unlike some historical monuments, you can move freely among the stones, touching their weathered surfaces.

Walking below these ancient stones felt almost haunting, and I wondered just who might have built this imposing array of giants.

The Calanais Standing Stones were erected some 5000 years ago, predating Stonehenge by some 500 or more years. Arranged in a cruciform pattern with a central stone circle, the site features over 50 stones made of ancient Lewisian gneiss, with the tallest standing 4.8 meters high.

The purpose of the Standing Stones remains unknown, but several theories have been offered. One is that the stones likely served as a site for religious or spiritual ceremonies, connecting the earthly and celestial realms. 

Another is that they were some kind of prehistoric observatory for marking celestial events. This is because the stones are famously associated with the Major Lunar Standstill, a rare event occurring every 18.6 years when the moon reaches its most extreme northern or southern rising and setting points. At Calanais, the full moon during this event appears to rise from a natural landform known as the “Sleeping Beauty” or “Old Woman of the Moors,” framed by specific stones. The stones also align with the rising and setting sun during solstices and equinoxes. For example, notches in certain stones create a “viewfinder” for observing the midsummer sunrise, while other arrangements allow sightings of the spring and autumn equinoxes

The layout suggests it could also have been a communal centre for social or trade activities, while a burial cairn found at the site indicates it may have been used for funerals or honouring ancestors.

What is known is that the people who built Calanais travelled beyond the Hebrides. Even before the stones were erected, the neolithic farmers reached Ireland and Orkney. Indeed, it is believed that the standing stones at Stenness in Orkney were the inspiration for creating the Calanais array.

Given their mysterious nature, it was no surprise to learn that there are some myths and legends associated with the stones. Local folklore refers to the stones as Fir Bhreig (“False Men”). According to legend, they were once giants who refused to convert to Christianity or build a church for St. Kieran. As punishment, they were turned to stone by divine or supernatural forces.

Another tells of a famine, when a white cow with red ears is said to have emerged from the sea and walked to the stones. It allowed villagers to milk it, each person filling a single bucket. However, when a witch, out of spite for the others, took more milk than she needed, the cow vanished into the sea, never to return.

A midsummer legend speaks of a mysterious figure called “The Shining One.” At sunrise on the summer solstice, this entity is said to walk down the avenue of stones, heralded by the call of a cuckoo. 

Such stories just add to the atmosphere of the site. Indeed, while the stones will be impressive at any time of the day, from photographs I’ve seen, a visit at night, in stormy weather or at sunset can really enhance the setting.

But whenever you go, the experience will leave a lasting impression. It was a cold, windy afternoon in May when we walked among the stones, and despite the presence of other visitors, there was an eerie quietness to the place, as if nobody wanted to raise their voice. This surely means we were not alone in feeling a sense of wonder at this magnificent ancient structure.

The Calanais Standing Stones are part of a larger complex of Neolithic sites in the area. Several other stone circles and structures are located nearby. Calanais II and III are two significant stone circles situated just over a kilometre southeast of the main site (Calanais I). They too are open to visitors and can be seen from the main road. And within a few kilometres of Calanais I, there are at least three other circles, several arcs, alignments, and single stones, underlining the area’s rich archeological importance.

Calanais can be reached by car from Stornaway in around 30 minutes. There is a small car park and a visitor centre (which was closed for redevelopment when we visited). From the car park you follow a short path up to the stones.

Note: Calanais is the local Gaelic name. The English name is Callanish, (which is also how it is pronounced in both languages). A partnership between Historic Environment Scotland and Urras nan Tursachan (The Standing Stones Trust) cares for and manages the site. See the Trust’s website for details of their work and more information about the stones.

The featured photo at the top of this post was sourced from Unsplash. All other photos were taken by David.

Sources: See links above and in post