The island fortress of Tioram Castle

As locations go, the setting for Tioram Castle is stunning. Standing proudly on the tidal island of Eilean Tioram, it has the beautiful Loch Moidart as its backdrop. In fact, I’d say that Castle Tioram (pronounced “Cheerum”) is one of Scotland’s most atmospheric medieval ruins.

Not surprisingly, its strategic position made it perfect for controlling the waters of Loch Moidart and routes east to Loch Shiel and Loch Sunart, avoiding the dangerous waters off the Ardnamurchan coastline. It was most likely used to pull up or even hide boats well before the castle was built.

Grey castle against blue sky on green grassy raised part of island

Christina MacRuari of the Isles, a 13th-century noblewoman, was the first recorded owner of Tioram Castle. She passed it to her half-brother, Ruari, and then it went to her niece Amie MacRuari. Amie is thought to have made improvements to the castle, replacing wooden structures and enhancing its defences.

When Amie’s son Ranald inherited the castle, it became home for the Macdonalds of Clanranald, with Ranald as its first chief. They added a top story and attic gables to the main hall block but it still rose only a short distance above the curtain wall. They also heightened half of the south west range to form another tower.

Photo showing the castle on its island, with the sandy area in front at low tide and tree-covered hills in distance.
The island is completely cut-off from the shore at high tide.

The Macdonalds occupied the castle, mostly continuously, until 1715. But over this long period, misfortune fell upon some of the clan chiefs. Much of this was a result of conflict with the Scottish crown. Allan Macdonald, 4th Chief, was executed by James IV in 1509 after taking part in pillaging Atholl. The 5th Chief, Ronald, was hanged in 1513. Dugald, 6th Chief, was murdered by his own clansmen.

Close-up of grey castle walls, showing weathered stone and tops of vegetation inside the castle walls.

Later, John of Moidart, the 8th Chief, was held in Edinburgh Castle for refusing to submit to the Scottish Crown. He was released following the death of James V, but continued his troublesome ways. So much so that in 1554, the Regent of Scotland, Marie de Guise, ordered an offensive to bring John under control.

On behalf of the crown, she sent forces to attack by land and sea. But the land army led by the Earl of Huntly failed to penetrate the Macdonalds’ heartlands. Meanwhile, the Duke of Argyll approached from the sea and bombarded Castle Tioram from his ships and a battery set up on the shore. However, without land support Argyll eventually withdrew, and John stayed securely in possession of his lands and castle. He remained in dispute with the Scottish crown throughout his long life and died at Tioram Castle in 1584.

Castle in sunlight with a view of the tree-covered hills behind on the other side of the loch, and wet sand in foreground.

John’s grandson, Donald, the 11th chief was imprisoned in 1609 and released having agreed to obey the king and the law. He was granted a charter to the lands by James VI in 1610. But the 12th chief is alleged to have been involved in episodes of piracy in 1627 and 1636.

In 1692, following involvement of the 14th chief Allan Macdonald with the Jacobite court in France, the government seized Castle Tioram. But during the Jacobite rising of 1715, Allan Macdonald returned and recaptured Tioram with a small force. He then set it alight to prevent its future use by the Hanoverian government. This act effectively ended the castle’s role as a stronghold, leaving it a ruin

Another angle view of the castle against the blue sky with wet sand in the foreground.

The castle today can be accessed by following a long and twisty single-track road from nearby Acharacle. Continue until reaching the beach; and then at low tide, walking across the exposed sandy causeway. We visited in March and were fortunate to enjoy sunny weather. There is a car park at the end of the road and it is only a short walk from the beach across to the island. But be aware of the high tide when the causeway is completely covered.

Castle in distance and foreground of two dogs (Border Collie and West Highland Terrier) playing on the wide expanse of sand.
Our two dogs enjoyed playing on the wide expanse of sand at low tide.

Sadly, the castle ruins are slowly being lost to nature and the ravages of the Scottish climate. There is no access inside the structure for safety reasons; and the terrain on the island is quite uneven, so decent footwear is recommended.

Closer view of the castle in sunlight.

Efforts to restore the castle have been contentious. In 1997, proposals to convert it into a private residence and museum were denied by Historic Environment Scotland, citing its status as a Scheduled Monument. This has led to a decades-long stand-off between conservationists and the current owners, leaving the castle in disrepair.

A more distant view of the sunlit castle on its island with plenty of wet sand in the foreground

Despite its condition, the castle is an impressive looking fortress. What’s more, its beautiful surroundings, and at low tide the wide expanse of sand, make it a fantastic place to visit.

View of the blue waters of Loch Moidart, with steep tree-lined hills around the edge.
Loch Moidart

Featured image at the top of this post is by Hazel Clifton on Unsplash

For more information, please see:

Moidart Local History Group

Wild About Lochaber

River To Sea Scotland

Undiscovered Scotland

Wikipedia

Britain Express

Isle of Albion

Visit Fort William

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