Melrose Abbey in the Scottish Borders is one of Scotland’s most significant and visually striking medieval ruins. Its history stretches back to 1136, when King David 1st founded the abbey for Cistercian monks, a religious order known for their austere way of life and dedication to manual labour.

Built near the site of an earlier old 7th Century monastery at Old Melrose, the new Melrose Abbey quickly became one of Scotland’s most important spiritual centres. The abbey’s Gothic architecture, with its intricately carved stonework, was renowned for its beauty and craftsmanship. A surprising amount of this still survives today, despite the passage of time and multiple attacks by invaders.

During the first centuries of the monastery’s life, the monks managed and worked an extensive collection of farms. However, by the 1400s the recruitment of lay-brothers had slowed, and so the monks rented out many of their farms. Their most important product was wool. Indeed, by the mid-1300s (when wool production in Scotland was at its peak) Melrose Abbey owned some 17000 sheep making it a major wool producer.

The relative peace of the Scottish Borders was broken in 1296 when Edward I of England invaded Scotland. 

Some twenty years later, the King of Scots, Robert the Bruce, who defeated Edward II at Bannockburn in 1314, based himself at Melrose and launched raids into English-held lands. However, in 1322 at the hands of Edward II’s English soldiers, the Abbey was sacked. Robert the Bruce helped to pay for the abbey’s rebuilding after its destruction.

When he died, Robert the Bruce’s heart was carried on a crusade by his friend, the Good Sir James of Douglas. It was returned to Scotland in 1331 and then buried at the abbey. A casket believed to contain his heart was discovered on-site in the 20th century, further cementing the abbey’s significance in Scottish history.

Further damage to the abbey occurred in 1385 at the hands of another English king, Richard II, when his soldiers burnt the monasteries at Melrose, Dryburgh and Newbattle.

After this destruction, rebuilding of the abbey continued over the next 100 or more years, creating much of the medieval architecture that we see today. Interestingly, the exterior of the abbey has been adorned with carved statues and although many are now missing, there are some fascinating survivors. These include flying dragons, demons and images of Christ, saints and martyrs. There is even a bagpipe-playing pig.

In the mid-1500s the abbey was again a victim of war during what became known as the “Rough Wooing”. Henry VIII of England tried to force a marriage between his son Edward and the young Mary Queen of Scots. The English set fire to Melrose Abbey’s church and desecrated its tombs. The abbey then fell into disrepair although parts continued to be used by monks until the early 1600s. Its eventual demise was underlined by the Protestant Reformation that officially abolished Catholic worship in Scotland.

Today Melrose Abbey is managed by Historic Environment Scotland. It is open to visitors most of the year and an entrance fee applies. At the time of writing, access inside the abbey is restricted due to conservation work.

Living in the borders, we have visited the abbey more than once. Walking around the grounds you get a sense of how impressive it must have been in its time. You can also appreciate its beauty and the obvious skills of the masons who built it. What’s more, there is also a museum which provides an interesting history of the local area. As for Melrose itself, it is one of our favourite towns and we visit frequently.

Melrose Abbey is easily located on the north east of the town. There is a small “pay and display” car park nearby, or you can try your luck with on-road parking. In summer both the town and the abbey can be quite busy.

Finally, some of you may be interested in a ghostly connection with Melrose Abbey. According to legend, a vampire-like ghost once haunted the abbey in its early days. It was known as the Hundeprest, and upon rising from its tomb, was killed by an axe-wielding monk.