Close to the River Esk, in what was once “Reiver” country, is a restored 16th century tower house. Known as Gilnockie Tower, it’s just under 5 km (3 miles) from the border with England heading south on the A7 trunk road. I had some spare time on a recent trip to Carlisle so I decided to find out more about this intriguing building.

Reivers is the name given to certain families that lived along the Anglo-Scottish border from the 1300s to the 1600s. They were the product of the constant wars between Scotland and England that made the borders unsuitable for arable farming. Instead, the principal business of these border families became that of reiving (raiding or plundering) livestock from across the border and even from each other. It was considered a normal way of life.

Gilnockie Tower is a typical rubble built defensive building of the type made popular during the times of the Reivers. Constructed to house and protect an important family, it was most likely built around 1519-20. With its thick stone walls and featuring a distinctive rectangular design, the tower served both as a family residence and a fortress against raids. The structure’s imposing presence would have been a clear statement of power in an era when “might” often made right. Tradition has linked Gilnockie Tower with the famous Armstrong clan, and a certain Johnnie Armstrong in particular.

Johnnie was a powerful and wealthy man, and was a notorious reiver. During the wars with the English, such men were valuable to Scottish monarchs. But when they became too powerful then kings became worried. So Johnnie was invited by Scotland’s James V to a royal hunting party. Flattered by the attention, Johnnie and some 30 (or perhaps more) followers rode north from Gilnockie. But on the way, they were ambushed, captured and executed by order of the king.

Over the course of the 16th century, Gilnockie Tower suffered damage from a succession of attacks and eventually fell into disuse. After many years as a ruin it was restored as a family home in the 1970s and in 1995, bought by the current owner. Since then it has been run a as museum, and after a major upgrade between 2015 and 2018, it reopened as the visitor centre and museum for Clan Armstrong.

Today’s visitors can explore four floors of fascinating architecture, each telling its own story of border life: 

• The ground floor, with its vaulted ceiling, served as storage and shelter for valuable livestock during raids
• The first floor housed the great hall, the heart of family life and power
• Upper floors contained private chambers for the family
• The roof walkway, now restored, offers breathtaking views across the border country

Gilnlockie Tower houses an impressive collection of Armstrong memorabilia and border reiving artifacts. Interactive displays bring to life the fascinating, though often brutal, history of this frontier region.

Located near the village of Canonbie in Dumfries and Galloway, Gilnockie Tower is easily accessible by car from the A7. The site offers parking facilities and is open to visitors most of the year (but closed for the winter). 

If you like castles, old buildings or history, or are simply seeking to connect with Scotland’s past, this beautifully preserved tower house offers an authentic and engaging experience of border history.