Standing on top of Battery Hill, overlooking the coastal town of Oban, is McCaig’s Tower. This peculiar structure, which looks like the famous Roman ruin, is actually a relatively modern monument with a fascinating story.

It begins with John Stuart McCaig, a native of the nearby Isle of Lismore who became a successful banker with the North of Scotland Bank. He owned a considerable amount of property in the town and also served as a local councillor and as chief magistrate. McCaig was 72 years old when in 1895 he commissioned work on what became McCaig’s Tower.

As well as providing a lasting monument to the McCaig family, a key aim of the project was philanthropic. He wanted to provide work for masons during the winter when they would usually be unemployed. As a result, work mainly proceeded during the winter months, and by the time McCaig died only the outer wall had been completed. Although he made provision in his will to fund completion of the project, surviving family members had other ideas for the money. The will was successfully challenged with the judge describing McCaig as an “eccentric testator”. 

McCaig placed an inscription above the entrance to the tower “Erected in 1900 by John Stuart McCaig, art critic and philosophical essayist and banker, Oban.” As if to illustrate this description of the man further, it is said McCaig wanted to place statues of himself and his family around the tower, while some have suggested he wanted the structure to become an art gallery and museum.

Whatever his intentions, the tower is certainly a striking feature of the Oban skyline. Built of stone extracted from the quarries at Bonawe, on Loch Etive, it has a circumference of some 200 metres, and the wall height varies to accommodate the contours of the hilltop on which it stands.

What makes McCaig’s Tower particularly special is how it serves as both an historical monument and a living part of Oban’s community. It has even featured in a music video by the brilliant Scottish band Skerryvore. Their video for Soraidh Slàn & The Rise includes footage of the Oban High School Pipe Band performing at the iconic tower, alongside stunning drone shots of Oban and the Isle of Tiree.

The tower’s elevated position makes it the perfect spot to watch the CalMac ferries coming and going from Oban’s busy port, or to simply gaze out at the islands just off the Argyll coast. The local council has developed the grounds and today it takes it rightful place as one of the most popular attractions in the area.

Getting there involves a steep 15-minute walk from Oban’s seafront – but the climb is worth it. Follow signs from George Street up to Duncraggan Road, or use a map app. Alternatively, there is a small car park just below the tower if you’re not up for the walk. There’s no entrance fee, and the site is open year-round.

In our view, McCaig’s Tower is an essential stop on any visit to Oban. It is an unusual place, and like us, you may wonder about its purpose. But the views really are outstanding, so take a camera (especially with a telephoto lens). When we visited it was overcast but dry. However, being Scotland the weather can change quickly. Check the forecast as there is nowhere to shelter from rain, and it is likely to be quite windy at times.

McCaig’s Tower is a reminder of one man’s vision and ambition, even if that vision was never fully realised. In the end, perhaps he created something better – a unique landmark that provides both visitors and locals with a quiet retreat and some of the most spectacular views on Scotland’s west coast.

Note: Featured photo at the top of this post by Abhishek Banik on Unsplash. All other photos by David except where stated.